Daily Observation – Conversation Map

Day 1                         Torquay – Totnes to Brighton, UK

Evidence of snowstorm · hill forts · teletubby land · glimpses of sea · ringworm · glaciers · coprolites · academic writing · Alan’s language · Gestalt · ice ages · departure time · Poland · turmeric · pitas · car routes vs. train routes · snow in trees · sledging tracks · Brighton memories · Christmas carols · coprology

Day 2                         Brighton to Ede, Netherlands via Belgium

Early morning · coastal views · borders · contact boundaries · edges · white Dover cliffs · silence · seven sisters · silence · navigation · way-finding · map-reading · route-planning · Poland · Danish lesson · excitement · ticket lady pounding on window · second mate tall tales · sleeping on open deck · snoozing under the stairs · currency for toilet exchange · France · Belgium · Netherlands · snoozing · dozing · cyclists on bridges · clidesdale horses · camping · new windmills · traditional windmills · cycle paths · cyclists on bridges · green growing bridges · bird nests · trained trees · fields of  topiary · music conversations · trains · cooking outside · campsite library · two miners, mining for dreams · drawing journeys wrapped up warm ·

Day 3                         Ede, Netherlands to Lagow Poland via lots of German motorway

Cooked breakfast with pitas · defining class · people detective · wind turbines · graffiti · bored truckers · deer · changing landscape · German roofs · changing road signs · dozing · motorway · “was ist das” · 50 cent pee · mistletoe bunches replace crows nests · red-roofed homes · timber houses ·

Mark shakes hands with strange policeman · back garden campsite · Radio Maryja UKF 98.4 MHz · summer dance platform · silent town · dodgy single male activity spot · humping dogs out for a stroll · no billboards · McDonalds Golden Arches as topiary· eating · beautiful lake · conifer plantations · cemeteries · rounded roof windows · mistletoe · exploring by night · clues of a small town ·

Day 4             Lagow, Poland to Lucien, Poland

Storks · stork nests · communism · men with mustaches · soviet trucks · old people riding slowly on bikes · Polish history · population homogeneity · open coal mine · chleb (Polish for bread) · Kantor (Polish for money change) · old cobbled road · cobbles under tarmac · Tesco ·open farms · comparisons with Spain and Portugal · peeing in Polish wood · manure · chickens on the loose (free range) · brightly painted schools · speeding ticket · 50 kph between entry and exit town signs · Biskupin Iron Age settlement (reconstructed) · nuzzling bulls · bleeting lambs · small roads · dower expressions · elephant ankles · roadside shrines with ribbons · hot air balloon · smoke communion with air currents · strange attractors · warm beds · carbon footprint of local coal ·

Day 5                         Lucien, Poland to Bialowieza, Poland

Tea picnic in park · potato harvest · chemicals or organic · chucking out teabags · organic waste in landfills · sandpit in backyard used for building · pot holes · road work · #2 visit to kantor · man on bicycle with sack of potatoes across handlebars · sewing seed by hand · white flowers in forest · stork photo · navigating · storks in their nests · horse and cart · lovely old man · photos of people on the sly · Caesar cut down trees along roads in Germany · Poland · Germans believed souls resided in these trees · blankets purchased in rainstorm · Bison reserve · prostitute in red boots · evening bird chorus · birch trees in the mist · language barrier · pouring rain · hostel · sunrise drawn in dirt · old man in boots · 6 am · peanut sauce · reality check · internet tangle · ferry frustration · Polish · across the river from Treblinka · Polish High Street ·

Day 6                         Bialoweiza, Poland (Reserve National Park) …….no driving

Man with boots 6am · wood pecker sighting · tour sorting · the only tree that loses it noodles · bird of prey · people on bikes · driving practice · meeting birdman · seeing wild bison · 9 snakes · flint stick – whittling · snoozing in watch tower · bubbling bog · wood worm wall paper · fast fresh miso · comedy Frisbee · long walk· map confusion · sniffing out new territory · tracks and poos · whistling man · different bird calls for different predators · human predators · prisoners of war · escape POW by glider · walking back to UK from Belgium · areas cut down by Germans in WW II · Philipusky · rail line construction · size of wolf territories · flint-knapping · skull · Mark’s 6th sense · photo – mania · perception of color · natural pigments · lots of lichen · fungi percussion orchestra · swamp board walks · moss edging · fellow camper · owls sensing the weather · town water spigot ·

Day 7             Bialowieza, Poland to Ginuciai, Aukstaitijos Nacionalis Parkas, Lithuania

Rain and thunder in the night · Swiss passenger · wet tent · 6 am park tour · tinder fungus · 3 flying cranes · frog · wild boar ice cream (celandine bulb) · toad · wife who howls like a wolf · pump of glacial water · great spotted woodpecker, female · black woodpecker in flight · ph of a flower changes after fertilization · “animal marks are everywhere!” · the oldest cow is the leader · prescriptive hunting · primeval forest explained · more storks · no checks border · unfair British border checks · curiosity about Scandinavia border · gentle hills · smaller fields · 2nd horse and cart ·funeral car · Zabrowka vodka purchase at super market · valiutos keitimas (Lithuanian for money exchange) · flint collection · ancient oaks · navigating · route decisions · making friends with sesame snaps · rough road · Baltic Map · internal head trips · Becky’s Rokiskis family history · space to place · seeing clues for animal stories · tummy ache · headache · soviet fire engine babe photo · potholes · road work · yellow houses · rural countryside · proper middle of nowhere ·

Day 8             Ginuciai, Lithuania to Uulu, Estonia via Latvia

Lovely campsite by a lake · beaver felling and eating site · teeth-marks on logs with blood from gums · projects and ideas · 3 flying swans · cameras full · bee-keeping museum · amazing carved beehives · honey comb pattern · squished toad · slippery steps · mill · counting sticks · Lady of the Lake (Anna swimming at dawn) · black soil allotments · quadies in the night · flip a bitch · living under soviet control · Rokiskis · trying to imagine Wolf and Gittel walking these streets · “can’t you just imagine them? · sprotes ella (canned fish for Katie) · cobbled market square · white columned building · tranquil street of two-story painted wooden buildings · growing food · cold · no marked boundaries · clustered sheds · wooden church · Becky recording on her Dictaphone · Laplander? (noticeable nonwhite person) · racially hegemonic · sparse shop fronts · few billboards · woman falling down · text from Katie too late · understanding directions in Lithuanian · Baltic languages: Lithuanian and Latvian · language loss · badges · tea in the wind on the Baltic sea · Latvian Baltic sea run with bare feet · white house Puhkemaja campsite 9:44 pm · strange 70’s décor · slightly subterranean banquet hall ·

Day 9                         Uulu, Estonia to Tallin, Estonia

Relaxed morning · toast and peanut butter dance · teaching and learning languages · cyclists between small towns · striped road · Anna in red PJs · tiny fungi on wooden clothesline · recording report in the sun · hot showers · black bread breakfast · imagination flexibility · detective work · erratic boulders · sheep · ruined church used for grain storage during communist era · tee-pee · ecology field trip · natural wonder each day · sunshine · honeycomb fossils · yoga in the sun · MA widow · dark chocolate · teen roller-bladers · first café stop · Episcopal castle – Haapsalu · drawing · sun burnt cheeks and necks · accommodation hunt with blond assistant · navigating Tallin · posh hostel · medieval cobbled streets · non-Estonian restaurants · log town house with rope between the chinks · drunken wobblers · strip joints · pancake search · cheese pancakes eaten · female weightlifters · cherry beer · hallucinogenics, perception and imagination · emerald hair seaweed · woof woof · Master’s courtyard · effeminate, fur-coated soft-spoken Estonian · “Americans really put the R back in ‘turd’” ·

Day 10                       Tallin, Estonia to Helsinki, Finland

Rhythm of wheels on cobblestones · chocolate breakfast extravaganza · oldest building in Tallin · 17th Century women’s prison · gifts · weaving shop · wood shop · mountain ash bracelet · black oak (under water 400 years) bracelets · onion church (Eastern Orthodox) · tap of holy water · old Tallinn photos · history of the Master’s Courtyard from a generous fashion student · expensive old town flats · world heritage UNESCO · pink Parliament building · Chocolate shop visitors’ book entries · chocolate high ·chocolate sugar crash · city navigating · flipabitch in city center · “I got completely alkiholipood last night” · finding ferry · lonely case of vodka · naps all around · first Baltic Sea crossing · tasteless décor · gypsy woman in black velvet · drawing · Helsinki navigation · finding hostels · cauliflower macaroni dinner from camping larder · Japanese traveler · long skype to America · Brazilian traveler · expensive drinks · travel accounts downstairs · destination arrival? · prospects for networking · flirting anomaly · shocking Helsinki prices · peppermint tea · drawing ‘til midnight · paranoid pee ·

Day 11                       Helsinki, Finland – No Driving – Grassroots Conference

Early morning · stolen milk · caught white-handed · wandering city streets · herds of commuters · train station sounds · Kiasma Theater · cold wind · Alan tone-setting and sense-making · Uula bioarts · car crisis · Mark port walk · many languages · simultaneous translation · moving forest stories and history · Russian Eclipse zoo project · numb bums · inspirational Eva · culture fermentation · invitations · possible modes of conversation · male – female communication · Liverpool wasteland · funny Georg · daily report kneeling to sound recorder · red wine and cheese balls · Finnish folksongs in the gallery · reindeer and meat on crackers · future plans and ambitions · family history · fungi  and PCBs · over-friendly chaps · Moscow Bar · funeral curtain · tram ride · more late-night drawing · dry, self-possessed fiery arteologist · laughter ·

Day 12                       Helsinki, Finland to somewhere in the Baltic Sea on Silja Ferry

Eggs on toast with Nigerian architect · Ken Sarowiwa · Corruption and kidnapping · H   project · environment and education · contentious questions and beefy debate · Moon Geese · hitchhiking through Russia · curated expeditions · free cabbage rolls · Jan: mindful vulnerability · what’s the point of it all? · story-teller · narrative · oxidized copper roofs · majestic contours · stone · brick · choral arrangement of complaints about Finland video · ferry rush · Alan kindness · Free Soil · car announcement over loud speaker · views of port · little house on island · grassy bunkers on islands · water plane · seagulls in the wake · gin and tonics · watercolor sunset · early evening naps · tacos · cheesy Swedish band · family dance floor · relationships · blue suede shoes · mojitos · sleeping arm ·

Day 13                       Baltic Sea to Okno, Sweden via Stockholm

Snoring · weaving through islands · sun on face · muesli in cups · vacation homes? · alcohol breathalyzer test · stalling engine · decision to phone AA · Stockholm · finding choice brake-down spot by water · whittling counting sticks · “scouts” · strange looks · big Swedish tow truck named Karen · riding through Stockholm in the van on tow-truck · logs lifted by crane · red and white new houses · spaceship chapel · beckoning supermarket giant · suspense at the garage · easy fix-fuse for catalyst · police headlights-on reminder · moose signs · fresh veg · bicycles · funny town names · English spoken · campsite by the sea · cold · soup · crackling fire · fireside flying in airplanes debate · conference · course analysis · warm flames · brownies are pudding · vodka and apple juice · shrinking fire in the sand · bum-roasting · bright moon · aesthetic brake-down · observe change in yourself via research ·

Day 14                       Okno, Sweden to Martofte, Denmark

Morning cold · she dreamed she was a bison · seaside dream · tea · counting stick whittling · warm sunshine · flying dreams · reed collection · destination Christiania · massive erratic boulder big as a house · beautiful seaside morning · brake-down 2 · muffler saga · turd tube · goobering · lunch on riverbank · duckling crossing sign · McDonald’s loo stop (poo preferred) · “there ist nee papin” (“there is no paper” in Swedish) · badge-making · whittling apron · sleep deprivation · naps · bridge over the sea · tunnel under the sea · beautiful Danish kroner coins · Fascism in Spain · no Christiania visit · Bog woman instead · feat of engineering · twee houses · deer · pikey campsite · huge fields · circle of trees left in the field · windmill count · pheasant masquerading as fox · hare · camping curry · team Zabrowka · happy we went through Eastern Europe · tenet among the daisies ·

Day 15                       Martofta, Denmark to Kolding, Denmark

Running over gas canister · windmills · Bristol discussion · pondering bog burial · architectural traces of the familiar · under ware shopping · Danish pastries · Church of Saint Nicolai · “We’ve come to see the bog woman” · Dronning Gundhild (drowned Norwegian queen) · Iron Age woman · leathery skin · black bog book · stalling on motorway · AA · waiting · 2nd ride on two truck to garage · Scandic Hotel · sauna · nap · internet · printing · cooking dinner in garage car park with camping stove · peanut sauce and cabbage · lovely sunset · vodka · five crowns ·church bells · “Mega Slutspurt” window advert · Sunday – closed · English – speaking, muscle ex-soldier truck driver ·

Day 16                       Kolding, Denmark to Brugge, Belgium via Germany and Netherlands

Garage – fiat garage confusion · rush to breakfast · amazing rotary cheese – cutter · gluttonous breakfast · squirreling away breakfast food for later · waiting · waiting · AA dealings · mobile credit · “he sounded like he had dark hair” · imagining reality from sounds on the phone · wrong garage · 3rd two truck ride · AA saga · expensive countries free stuff philosophy · out loud reading · Brief History of Denmark · clearing forests with flint axes · waiting · sunny day · comments from passers – by about our drawing · lunch compliments of Scandic · art teacher · trapped · lake · castle · samba band · tall bottles of chocolate · woman tow truck driver · van left at Danish garage ·Danish roots of English · Taxi to Flensburg · no English – speaking taxi driver · washing dishes in bathroom · on the road · new up-market rental car · Mark’s handshake tradition · rental car to Calais · repatriation of van · driving · saga writing · storytelling · night driving · 3 am garage sleep ·

Day 17                       Brugge, Belgium to Brighton, Totnes, Torquay, UK

Crunchy, cold car bodies · tea and coffees from garage machine · gray early morning · dummy road worker · ecological motorway binocular  sign · touch Danish taxi man’s squirrel · turtle miles · flat land · honey factory · EU · roads without cars · nature reclaiming roads · life drawing · artist as shaman · rental car return at port · luggage hubbub · ferry boarding · border crossing questions at British entry point · cooked breakfast · receipt sorting · daily report · sunny day on deck to Dover · tired travelers · team Zabrowka  spirit and compliments · “media full” · last on the ferry · cliffs of Dover · family · dissipation of team · deep tiredness ·

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